The Restaurant Guys
The Restaurant Guys is one of the original food and wine podcasts, launched in 2005 by restaurateurs Mark Pascal and Francis Schott.
With roots as a daily radio show, the podcast features in-depth conversations with chefs, bartenders, winemakers, authors, and hospitality professionals—offering the inside track on food, cocktails, wine, and restaurant culture.
New episodes and vintage conversations because the best stories, like the best bottles, age well. Expect insightful, opinionated, and entertaining conversations about food, wine, and the finer things in life.
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The Restaurant Guys
Reviving Gage & Tollner and Reinventing Tropical Cocktails | St. John Frizell & Garrett Richard
Use Left/Right to seek, Home/End to jump to start or end. Hold shift to jump forward or backward.
Recorded live before an audience at Sunken Harbor Club in Brooklyn.
Why This Episode Matters
Gage & Tollner’s revival is more than a preservation story. St. John Frizell and Garrett Richard show how historic restaurants and classic cocktails can be restored, reinterpreted, and made relevant.
The Conversation
The live conversation opens with Mark admitting that it took him several meetings to realize writer St. John Frizell and bartender “Sinjin” Frizell were the same person. Francis recalls Garrett recognizing The Restaurant Guys at Tales of the Cocktail, back when being recognized in public was still a notable event.
From there, St. John tells the improbable story of finding Gage & Tollner’s landmarked interior beneath the remains of a TGI Fridays, an Arby’s, and a makeshift mall. He explains how 450 crowdfunding investors helped revive the historic Brooklyn oyster and chophouse and how the restaurant was preparing to open when COVID closed New York.
Garrett traces Sunken Harbor Club from a weekly pop-up to one of the country’s most distinctive cocktail bars. He explores forgotten tropical formats, historic steakhouse drinks, the challenge of creating serious non-alcoholic cocktails, and the timelessness of the Martini.
The conversation also reaches Charles H. Baker Jr., his amazing life and the idea that a great drink can be built as much on story and context as on the recipe itself.
Timestamps
00:00 Live from Sunken Harbor Club
02:00 St. John, Sinjin and a James Bond pronunciation lesson
04:00 Garrett’s first encounter with The Restaurant Guys
05:30 The opening cocktails and Sunken Harbor’s menu philosophy
08:30 Gage & Tollner prepares to open as COVID closes New York
11:00 How the Sunken Harbor Club began as a weekly pop-up
14:00 Finding Gage & Tollner behind false walls
17:00 Raising $450,000 from 450 crowdfunding investors
20:00 Reconstructing forgotten cocktails and the Cross Current
25:30 Historic steakhouse drinks meet tropical cocktails
30:30 Why serious non-alcoholic cocktails are so difficult
42:00 Martinis, Charles H. Baker and cocktails built around stories
Bios
St. John Frizell is a writer, restaurateur and co-owner of Gage & Tollner and Sunken Harbor Club in Brooklyn. His work has appeared in publications including Bon Appétit, Saveur and Punch, and he is also the founder of the acclaimed Red Hook restaurant and bar Fort Defiance and a noted authority on cocktail writer and adventurer Charles H. Baker Jr.
Garrett Richard is the Chief Cocktail Officer of Sunken Harbor Club and the co-author, with Ben Schaffer, of Tropical Standard. His career includes acclaimed cocktail programs at Existing Conditions, Slowly Shirley, ZZ’s Clam Bar and Exotica, and VinePair named him its 2024 Next Wave Bartender of the Year.
Info
Sunken Harbor Club
Brooklyn, New York
Gage & Tollner
Brooklyn, New York
Tropical Standard
By Garrett Richard and Ben Schaffer
Subscribe: Restaurant Guys' Regular
https://restaurantguysregulars.buzzsprout.com/
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You can do the thing?
Speaker 14Uh-huh
Speaker 39Do the thing. I'm gonna do the thing?
Speaker 14I gonna do the thing? Do the thing.
Speaker 3Do the thing.
Speaker 14I'm gonna do the thing. Yeah.
Speaker 39go ahead
Speaker 14You guys ready for the thing? Ready. Hello everybody, and welcome. You are here with The Restaurant Guys. I'm Mark Pascal, he's Francis Schott. Together we own Stage Left and Catherine Lombardi Restaurants in New Brunswick, New Jersey. We're here to bring you the finer things in life. Hi.
Speaker 4Hi.
Speaker 14Hey.
Speaker 39You know, that is so-
Speaker 14I changed it a little bit. Yeah. It messed him up. I changed him just a little bit
Speaker 4these live
Speaker 15Shows are some of our favorite things to do. These, uh, recorded in front of live audience shows are, are some of our favorite things to do. To those of you listening- But we only do them with people we like
Speaker 4of our favorite things to do. For those of you listening- But
Speaker 3we only do them with people we
Speaker 25we like.
Speaker 14And garum
Speaker 39And Garrett.
Speaker 4So for those of you
Speaker 25those of you who are listening, uh, at home, everybody here has cool cocktails made by Garrett. We're at the Sunken Harbor Club and, uh, Gage &Tollner here in Brooklyn. Um, and we'll talk about our two guests in a moment. Uh, if you are listening at
Speaker 4At home, we suggest
Speaker 25you
Speaker 4you make a drink
Speaker 25because Mark and I are way more interesting if you're drinking while listening
Speaker 39to us.
Speaker 25to us. Uh, if you're driving, don't do that. That'd be bad. Uh, but
Speaker 4So we're gonna
Speaker 15So we're gonna introduce
Speaker 25you to our
Speaker 14if you're driving, just drink the one you already have
Speaker 4Yeah.
Speaker 39one you already have. Yeah.
Speaker 25Uh, and we're gonna introduce you to our guests.
Speaker 4and we're
Speaker 25those of you who aren't
Speaker 4gonna introduce you to our guests.
Speaker 25probably
Speaker 4know these guys
Speaker 25Uh, we're guests in their home, but they're guests on our
Speaker 4So Garrett is the author of "Tropical Standard."
Speaker 39He's
Speaker 4the CCO, that's the chief cocktail officer of the Sunken Harbor Club, and he's VinePair's Next Wave Bartender of the Year 2024
Speaker 252024. Um, we've known him since Existing
Speaker 4Shins, Lily Shirley, The Monkey Bar
Speaker 25Monkey Bar, great journey through some of the best cocktail places in
Speaker 4In America and
Speaker 25And his book is "Tropical Standard" that he wrote with Ben
Speaker 15Shafer, he's also an author. Also an award-winning writer. Sinjin,
Speaker 25who's also an author. Also
Speaker 4an award-winning writer, Sinjin,
Speaker 15co-founder of Gaijin-
Speaker 4Uh, his writing you can read in Bon Appétit, Saveur, Punch,
Speaker 15by, um, and of course, G&T is recognized by VinePair as well,
Speaker 25We'll
Speaker 15which is
Speaker 25use that as the...
Speaker 4So many awards, but that'll be the anchor. best food and beverage
Speaker 25award. and this is easily one of the most innovative and unique
Speaker 15Resurrections and openings of
Speaker 4openings
Speaker 25any restaurant anywhere in America. And, uh, we couldn't be happier to
Speaker 14So glad to have you guys on the show. Yeah.
Speaker 27on the
Speaker 25show. Great
Speaker 26to be
Speaker 14Welcome to the restaurant, guys. All right, I'm gonna start today's show with a little confession.
Speaker 39But I'm gonna start today's show with a little confession. Uh-oh.
Speaker 14Sinjin, this is a confession to you.
Speaker 26Okay.
Speaker 14So over the years, we've met a bunch of times, and I'm gonna say it was on our third or fourth, fourth meeting where I realized that Sinjin and St. John Frizell were the same guy.
Speaker 26John Frizell all the time. My question is, who did you have the higher opinion of? So, uh, just a quick explanation of- Yeah
Speaker 39like, I read this guy St. John Frizell all the
Speaker 26St.
Speaker 5My question is who did you have the higher opinion of?
Speaker 14So, uh, just a quick explanation of Sinjin and St. John and- Okay, sure and why I'm s- and why I'm so stupid. My
Speaker 16mom's in the audience.
Speaker 26but,
Speaker 6I'm gonna ask her. But, um, i- it's like the name Sinclair is sometimes, uh, pronounced, uh, Sinclair even though sometimes it's spelled St. Clair. You're just supposed to say Sinclair. If you're on the London Tube, you go by St. Pancras Station. It's, It's, just, it's an old English thing. It's usually a middle name. was a James Bond film where he used it as an alias. This was, uh,
Speaker 26A,
Speaker 6A View to a Kill,
Speaker 40he used it as an alias. This was A View to a Kill
Speaker 6and I saw him say... They asked his name in the movie, and he said,
Speaker 26"Sinjin Smythe.
Speaker 6James Sinjin Smythe." And I
Speaker 26I
Speaker 6thought, "Oh my God, my life
Speaker 26has
Speaker 14Your life has changed forever
Speaker 6forever. Now everyone will know how
Speaker 26to pronounce my name."
Speaker 14That's amazing. I did not know you were born on the London Tube.
Speaker 15We
Speaker 39at the Pegu Club- Yeah
Speaker 15actually said our first meeting was you were bartending at the Pickwick Club. Yeah.
Speaker 39Saunders, like the first year or so of the Pegu Club, and, uh, it was amazing. I also, had read your work and didn't know that that was the guy I knew was a bartender. I
Speaker 25I
Speaker 39I literally
Speaker 25found it like seven years later- Yeah and it was the same guy.
Speaker 26Yeah.
Speaker 25so
Speaker 4So anyway
Speaker 25Garrett and we met, and Garrett holds a d- d- serious place in our heart because before you were the famous bartender you are now, and before we were the famous podcasters we are now um,
Speaker 15Um, we were maybe a few years in. It was 2009, I think we were a few years into doing the, the radio
Speaker 25uh, show and the pod-
Speaker 39podcast. I don't know if you remember this, but we were at Tales of the Cocktail,
Speaker 25And, you know, we
Speaker 39weren't
Speaker 25weren't as Instagram
Speaker 39video
Speaker 25photograph friendly as we are today. This guy says, um
Speaker 39"E- excuse me. may sound crazy, but I think I recognize your
Speaker 25"Are you 'The Restaurant
Speaker 39Guys?"
Speaker 4The restaurant guys?
Speaker 39It's
Speaker 25Guys?'" It was the
Speaker 14Boys, are you the
Speaker 39we were
Speaker 25we were ever recognized by anyone. And so thank
Speaker 14restaurateur guys? The first time we were ever recognized by anybody. And the third time was last week
Speaker 5last week
Speaker 28So anyway,
Speaker 39we've
Speaker 28been friends ever since. Well, it
Speaker 5Well, it was funny because I was working in radio at the time. I was a college student working at WFUV, worked a year after graduating, and I started
Speaker 18Looking for radio shows
Speaker 5and podcasts that were talking about this, and there really weren't any other than
Speaker 28really weren't any other
Speaker 5you, and
Speaker 18And then I think maybe episode
Speaker 5one
Speaker 18of Damon Balti's show and Dave Arnold's show, but there really I knew I liked cocktails. I got Jeff Berry's books
Speaker 5I didn't know where to go. And
Speaker 18The Restaurant Guys really was, for me, a guide to
Speaker 5Restaurant Guys really was, for me, a guide to like, okay,
Speaker 18go to
Speaker 5Paegu, go to
Speaker 28go
Speaker 5Flatiron Lounge, like hit up these people that these guys interviewed and, you know, have their drinks. So you're kind of responsible for all this. I prefer to be
Speaker 4irresponsible,
Speaker 14Lounge, like hit up these people that these guys interviewed and, you know, have their drinks. So you're kind of responsible for all these people. I prefer to be irresponsible, just so you know.
Speaker 5be
Speaker 4a nuclear physicist, but instead-
Speaker 5Yeah.
Speaker 25gonna be a
Speaker 5Thanks, guys.
Speaker 25made drinks. Sorry. Thanks, guys. So, uh, we wanna talk about a number of things, and we're gonna talk with each of you
Speaker 39of you
Speaker 25about different things and where this comes together, 'cause this is a, the coolest fucking restaurant cocktail bar concept outside of Stage Left and Capon Lombardi in America. Um, those are our restaurants
Speaker 39those of you who couldn't,
Speaker 15those are our restaurants we're opening. Right.
Speaker 39get that from context. Um, but w- w- why don't you tell
Speaker 25for those of you who couldn't, couldn't get that from context. Um, but w- why don't you tell us, we've had two drinks so far. Yeah. Sorry
Speaker 4Yeah.
Speaker 25at home,
Speaker 15What did, what did we have so far? So we started off
Speaker 18with
Speaker 15the
Speaker 5we started off with the
Speaker 18special Daiquiri Number One, which was on our opening menu. it was a drink that was in Tropical Standard, and it was really important
Speaker 5when we were initially--
Speaker 18when
Speaker 5Sinjin and I were talking about
Speaker 18we
Speaker 28and I were talking about the
Speaker 5we really got dialed
Speaker 18initially, when
Speaker 5the idea of like, let's
Speaker 18Sanja
Speaker 5the sections
Speaker 18I were talking about the menu, we really got dialed into the idea of like, let's do the sections of by strength of alcohol, like a low strength, medium, high strength, The original Dawn menu was before sunset, sunset, later were the three sections. For some reason, the zombie
Speaker 5Sunset.
Speaker 41sunset.
Speaker 18was sunset. I
Speaker 14don't know
Speaker 18why. Yeah. Pause to sunset. Yeah.
Speaker 39why
Speaker 5Like some of the logic you question, but, um, was important for us to do these sort of smaller 1930s crushed ice drinks where they were in very petite glassware because that format
Speaker 18obviously that format had
Speaker 5and the
Speaker 18died, and the only place I had seen it was,
Speaker 5places
Speaker 18like the Mai Tai that were still, like-
Speaker 5to the original Don the Beachcomber style.
Speaker 18So we had the special
Speaker 5Daiquiri Number One
Speaker 18Daiquiri Number One to start, and now we're having an El Presidente,
Speaker 5which is inspired by Pegu Club
Speaker 18is inspired by Pe- Pegu Club because the El Presidente really is
Speaker 5the
Speaker 18kind of rum answer to the Martini or the Manhattan. And when I was working on this drink originally
Speaker 5at my
Speaker 18pop-up called
Speaker 5Exotica, which was at Raines Law
Speaker 18Exotica, which was at Raines Law Room, but then really dialing in the recipe for the book for "Tropical Standard," I realized I wanted this drink to be 50/50 'cause the original El Presidente was two ounces of
Speaker 28vermouth
Speaker 18vermouth and one ounce of spirit, and nowadays it's the exact opposite. It's
Speaker 5the exact opposite.
Speaker 18more rum forward. And I just went back to that first Pegu Club experience I had,
Speaker 5having
Speaker 18a
Speaker 5fitty-fitty
Speaker 18Martini from Audrey, and I was like, "It'd be really cool to do this with the El Presidente." And I remember I brought that idea up to you, and you
Speaker 5absolutely have to n- have some sort of nod to the 50/50 on the menu." And doing it
Speaker 18were like, "We absolutely have to m- have some sort of nod to the 50/50 on the menu," and doing it with rum
Speaker 5was, I think, a really cool idea
Speaker 39thank you for the drinks, and they're wonderful. this is a
Speaker 25It's a cool audience
Speaker 39Uh, for those of you who ar- aren't here, or some of you are here may not know, uh, we have old restaurant friends who've run some of the best restaurants in Manhattan. We have, uh,
Speaker 25The
Speaker 15The owners
Speaker 25of Yanques de Pisco, which just got a launch in the United States are here
Speaker 39this evening. our friend Corey, who taught Audrey Saunders how to bartend, is sitting right over there, um, years ago. Uh. That's
Speaker 5He's, he, he's shaking his
Speaker 14He's, he,
Speaker 5no, but Hey, just
Speaker 14he's shaking his head no. And just so you know, we are leaving that in the podcast.
Speaker 4know, we are leaving that in the podcast. Yeah.
Speaker 39says.
Speaker 25That's what she says. We are leaving that in the podcast.
Speaker 39Uh, uh, we have our, friend Katie from th- the Dead-- who works for
Speaker 25The Dead Rabbit, and why The Dead Rabbit came to mind is, um, Dead Rabbit, our, our friends Jack and Sean, who we knew back in Belfast before they came here, they came and they many years get ready to open The Dead Rabbit, and it was like tragedy, like day one, like hurricane
Speaker 39tropical storms, fires,
Speaker 25All kinds of crazy stuff. And it was crazy how they came about. But
Speaker 39nothing
Speaker 25tops the
Speaker 15Story of the place we're in, I wanna read you, uh, from our friend- Oh
Speaker 25of the place we're in. I wanna read you, uh, from our friend Robert- Oh ...Simonson, uh, what he wrote in The New York Times. this appeared on March
Speaker 394th,
Speaker 254th, 2020. The
Speaker 4The return of Gage Tollner, a
Speaker 25of
Speaker 39Gage
Speaker 25Gage Tollner, a
Speaker 4Victorian haunt with a new vibe. The owners of Good Fork, Insa, and Fort Defiance are reviving
Speaker 25the 19th
Speaker 15Century New York dining institution. From further in the article, "Degen Tolner, one of the most storied restaurants in the New York, in New York food history, is finally reopening." Yay
Speaker 4New York dining institution.
Speaker 25institution."
Speaker 39From
Speaker 4further in the article, Gage Tollner, of the most storied restaurants in New York food history, is finally
Speaker 25reopening-" Yay
Speaker 4Yay
Speaker 25March 15th."
Speaker 415th.
Speaker 39Um. Wow.
Speaker 14ended. Wow.
Speaker 15The 16th. It ended up 16th.
Speaker 14So did you actually get to serve a drink before they closed
Speaker 3the whole world?
Speaker 14the whole world?
Speaker 6So we,
Speaker 26we
Speaker 6actually hosted before
Speaker 26March,
Speaker 6uh, 15th, a, a great series of super spreader events here. Oh, yeah. For,
Speaker 26for for, for
Speaker 6press and for investors. Um, I, I, I remember I went to, like, the Duane Reade that's across the street here, and,
Speaker 26uh,
Speaker 6I realized that one of the bar sinks
Speaker 26didn't
Speaker 6a hand
Speaker 16So
Speaker 6And so I was like, "Oh, what if the DOH sh- shows up?" So I went over there and
Speaker 26I was like, "Where's
Speaker 6I
Speaker 26the hand soap?
Speaker 6was
Speaker 26going on here?"
Speaker 6like, "Where's all the hand soap? What's going on here?" Oh, no. Like, the
Speaker 26the
Speaker 6whole shelf was empty. I really didn't know what was happening 'cause I was opening a restaurant, and so it's like,
Speaker 26you know,
Speaker 39You
Speaker 26was
Speaker 15Yeah, exactly. So, so, so what happens? So the, they, the you were about to open and the governor says
Speaker 6Opening
Speaker 39you were about to open and the governor
Speaker 4a restaurant. Yes, exactly. Yeah. So, so, so what happens? It-- So the, they, the, you were about to open and the governor says
Speaker 39more restaurants for an in- indefinite period of time." How did you guys survive? What was the impact to... You know, give us a little
Speaker 14'Cause now you're not available, you could lay people off and they collect unemployment. You didn't get any of that
Speaker 6Luckily, we had applied for an SBA loan, um, about six months earlier 'cause I realized that we were running out of money. We, we're not gonna have enough to get through the first months. So that loan came in right after, COVID happened, and also our landlords here gave us a really good deal. They said, "If you can't use the building for
Speaker 26you wanna use it
Speaker 6what you wanna use it for, we're not going to charge you rent for it." Wow.
Speaker 3Wow. That's
Speaker 14That's amazing
Speaker 26it
Speaker 6was, it was the best deal that I heard of-
Speaker 26Yeah
Speaker 6Yeah from a landlord in the city.
Speaker 39was the best
Speaker 3no,
Speaker 6we
Speaker 3got a
Speaker 6similar
Speaker 4deal, but we own our
Speaker 39building, so
Speaker 4we
Speaker 26own our building, so
Speaker 39ourselves the same
Speaker 3gave ourselves a deal.
Speaker 14Francis, we're not paying. Okay, we're not paying
Speaker 39we're not paying. Okay. that
Speaker 25is
Speaker 39it.
Speaker 25a
Speaker 4For administrator
Speaker 25tr-- that you have come through with that. Now, when did you finally get the doors open?
Speaker 6April, uh, 2021
Speaker 4Wow. God bless you. So a little round of
Speaker 14That's a long year.
Speaker 39A
Speaker 3Yeah.
Speaker 14a long year, man.
Speaker 3year,
Speaker 14But
Speaker 3But
Speaker 14when you initially funded Gage Tollner, some of your funds came from unusual sourcing. I, I love that story. The- Yeah
Speaker 6I mean, so we,
Speaker 26huh.
Speaker 6it--
Speaker 16All right. So I do have to
Speaker 14go back to the beginning. So I was-- we were-- I was trying to open this on the Harbor front
Speaker 6we... All right. So I may as
Speaker 26well
Speaker 6well go back to the beginning. So I was, I was trying to open the Sunken Harbor Club-
Speaker 26when
Speaker 6we found the space for Gage and Tollner. Um, I was in the neighborhood...
Speaker 26in
Speaker 62015, I got divorced, and
Speaker 26if you know anything about a divorce,
Speaker 6know anything about a divorce, s-sometimes you end up with less money
Speaker 26at the end of a divorce than you
Speaker 6at the end of
Speaker 4a divorce. Hold on a
Speaker 6second. Hold on a second. No. No, it's true. It's true. So I realized that, my revenue at, Fort Defiance, which was my neighborhood bar-
Speaker 26was
Speaker 6was not going to be sufficient to support myself, so I had this other concept called the Sunken Harbor Club, which started as a weekly
Speaker 26pop-up
Speaker 6or like a weekly event
Speaker 26that we would do
Speaker 6that we would do at the Fort.
Speaker 26I'm sorry, I just wanna interrupt you for one second. Yeah.
Speaker 14I'm sorry, just wanna interrupt you for one second. Yeah. For those of you out there who are thinking about increasing your revenue by opening a restaurant, it, it, it's not the way.
Speaker 6He's right.
Speaker 26He's
Speaker 14If
Speaker 18I, if I may pop for a second.
Speaker 5about
Speaker 18the pop-up culture about 10 years ago, I think is very different than what it is now. Mm-hmm.
Speaker 5like now it is much more product driven, and I think to give the listeners and everyone in the room just some context, back
Speaker 18Then there were pop-ups that were sort
Speaker 28like
Speaker 18crimes of passion, I guess, where, where it's like th- I don't have the money to do X, but I can get one day to do, like one day a week to do it.
Speaker 5X, but I can get one day to d-
Speaker 18for Brian Miller and
Speaker 5that
Speaker 18Tiki
Speaker 5that was the case for Brian Miller and Tiki Mondays.
Speaker 18Mondays. Mm-hmm.
Speaker 15That was the case for Millie
Speaker 25way to lose money on a small scale before you- Yeah.
Speaker 28E-
Speaker 5E- exactly.
Speaker 25graduated and
Speaker 5yeah.
Speaker 28on a
Speaker 6Yeah.
Speaker 26Yeah.
Speaker 6So there was, there was a very, devoted, bartender at The Fort named Zach Overman, who's now out in, uh, Seattle. He has a place called LorSan,
Speaker 26San,
Speaker 6is great, and I would recommend
Speaker 26to anyone that goes out there. His, uh, drinks are
Speaker 6to anyone that goes out there. His, uh, drinks are still fantastic. He was a tiki nut. I was not. I was a- Skeptic Audrey Saunders. was a skeptic.
Speaker 40Saunders. I
Speaker 26we th-
Speaker 6we thought, back in those days, we thought tiki drinks were not serious enough. We were into Manhattans and martinis-
Speaker 26martinis
Speaker 6and classic drinks.
Speaker 40drinks. And,
Speaker 6uh, and he worked on me for about six months just bringing me tiki drink after tiki drink until they finally got
Speaker 16Good enough where
Speaker 6I was like, "Okay, let's do this."
Speaker 16I was like, "Okay, let's do this." So we did it one day a week. We did it on, uh, Thursday nights. Garrett was a guest.
Speaker 18I was. I did it once.
Speaker 16Yeah.
Speaker 18Yeah.
Speaker 16And, it was great fun. So in 2015,
Speaker 402015,
Speaker 16the only idea I had was to start a podcast
Speaker 6the Sag Harbor Club,
Speaker 26and
Speaker 6and I was like, "Well, this is it. This is the concept. I'm gonna take this around."
Speaker 16So I tried to find some, uh
Speaker 6partners and ended up with two of my favorite, people in the world, my, uh, partners-
Speaker 14funny, I did the opposite.
Speaker 3I I, I partnered with- Thanks, buddy one of
Speaker 14I partner with
Speaker 3Anyway, so cut to
Speaker 14one of my least favorite people in the world
Speaker 26Anyway, so
Speaker 62017. I knew Downtown, uh, Brooklyn was where I wanted to open because there was nothing here. I got divorced in the, uh, courthouse that's like like
Speaker 26a f- a
Speaker 6a few steps away, and after, after the divorce, I walked out and wanted a martini or something, and ended up getting a prickly pear margarita
Speaker 26at
Speaker 6at Rocco's Tacos, which was the only restaurant around.
Speaker 16A very authentic Mexican,
Speaker 6from South
Speaker 16chain from South
Speaker 14Beach What? Rocco makes some bitching tacos, I'll tell you
Speaker 5does. Yeah.
Speaker 6So anyway, so I'm in the neighborhood and we're looking at a site. I dragged, uh, Ben along 'cause he knows everything about, buildings and-
Speaker 26construction.
Speaker 6and there was rain coming through the roof of this space that I had
Speaker 26seen
Speaker 6seen earlier, and I was like, "Well, this isn't going to
Speaker 26work."
Speaker 40to
Speaker 6And
Speaker 16realtor was
Speaker 6like,
Speaker 26I've
Speaker 16I've got one
Speaker 6one more thing to show you, but it's not what you're looking for." she starts to walk us around the neighborhood, and she's heading straight for the door
Speaker 26of,
Speaker 6of Gage Tollner, this
Speaker 26historic
Speaker 16restaurant that
Speaker 6that my partner and I knew of
Speaker 26the,
Speaker 6the legends
Speaker 40of,
Speaker 6of but had never been to. And, and sure enough, she pulls out
Speaker 26the keys and we go inside,
Speaker 6we go inside, and everything changes,
Speaker 26you
Speaker 39So
Speaker 25what was here when you--
Speaker 39here
Speaker 15No. So in, in 2004, it closed. It was open-
Speaker 39you-- What, what
Speaker 4you
Speaker 39when you came into-- This wasn't, it wasn't an operating steakhouse, it wasn't a restaurant?
Speaker 6know? So what was here when you-- What, what did you find when you came into this? It wasn't, it wasn't an operating steakhouse, it wasn't a restaurant. No. So in, in
Speaker 402004
Speaker 6closed. It was open for 125 years,
Speaker 26years
Speaker 6and it closed i-in 2004 and became a, uh, TGI Fridays. Oh. And then that- that closed after three years and it became an Arby's.
Speaker 40after
Speaker 6And it was an Arby's for a year,
Speaker 40an Arby's for a
Speaker 6and then it was a series
Speaker 16those are kind
Speaker 6down-market
Speaker 16retailers. I remember sneaking in here when it was basically a flea market inside. They were- Yeah, it was like
Speaker 18a mini
Speaker 16mall. Yeah, it was like a mini mall. Yeah. They were selling, uh, clothing,
Speaker 6jewelry,
Speaker 14those places at the Jersey Shore on the boardwalk
Speaker 5the T-shirts are
Speaker 14Yeah,
Speaker 5funny,
Speaker 14T-shirts are 99 cents. Yeah.
Speaker 5though, here. Yeah.
Speaker 6So anyway, it was that. And but I remember looking behind the false walls that they put up and noticing that the mirrors were
Speaker 26were still there, the woodwork was
Speaker 6still there, the woodwork was still there, and thinking like, "Oh, this place still exists." When we walked in... Because it's landmarked, uh, by the way. It's a- Oh, is that
Speaker 40'Cause it's landmarked,
Speaker 6why they still existed? Yes, it's an interior landmark.
Speaker 26uh, by the way. It's a- Oh, is that why they
Speaker 29still existed?
Speaker 26Yes,
Speaker 6Yes.
Speaker 4Oh.
Speaker 6They couldn't take them down. Amazing. That works. It was the third interior landmark in
Speaker 26city
Speaker 40after
Speaker 6New York, Public Library and Grant's Tomb.
Speaker 26Wow.
Speaker 39Wow. Who's buried there again? I'm
Speaker 6Yeah.
Speaker 39sorry.
Speaker 6Who's buried
Speaker 5there again? I don't know. I heard it a few times. I wanna do a bar in Grant's Tomb. It'd, it'd have to be a
Speaker 28That would be cool. It would
Speaker 26have to be a
Speaker 5ci- It, it would have to be a cigar bar, though, 'cause he's a
Speaker 14And there is smoke And the,
Speaker 39lot of,
Speaker 14and the cocktails there are deadly
Speaker 28cause
Speaker 25he's
Speaker 39so how do we get from there
Speaker 15I gotta get them there to-
Speaker 4how do we get from there to we get a bar open?
Speaker 25and how do you fund it? And
Speaker 39we'll take some of
Speaker 25we'll take
Speaker 26some of those. So the
Speaker 6So
Speaker 41the-
Speaker 39Those are the cocktail. For
Speaker 14The show gets better at the end. There's just, you
Speaker 39the
Speaker 14the
Speaker 39were
Speaker 25the
Speaker 4just so you know the cocktails were about to pass us by, and
Speaker 25If
Speaker 39you're not
Speaker 25you're not here and you don't know Gage Tollner,
Speaker 4if you're not here and you don't know Gage and Toller, if you come anywhere
Speaker 25within
Speaker 4striking distance
Speaker 25of, of the borough of Brooklyn, and
Speaker 39and
Speaker 25don't have a drink at Sunken Harbor Club-
Speaker 39and
Speaker 25steak in this unbelievably historic steakhouse,
Speaker 39you're crazy. Um, and the food's good, and the cocktails are good.
Speaker 15But so how do we get from you spy this r- this diamond in the rough, how do we get it back to what it is now, which is amazing? Yeah. So-
Speaker 4this ro- this diamond in the rough
Speaker 25rough, how do we get it back to what it is now, which is amazing?
Speaker 6Yeah, so it
Speaker 14Which is a diamond
Speaker 40a
Speaker 6It's--
Speaker 39diamond.
Speaker 26Thank
Speaker 6you. It's a diamond. Thank you, guys. It took a year and a half to raise the money to sign
Speaker 26lease.
Speaker 6the lease. Mm-hmm. And in the meantime, there were other people kind
Speaker 26sniffing
Speaker 6around.
Speaker 40around.
Speaker 6We knew instantly that we wanted to put the Sunken Harbor Club upstairs and resurrect Toa, the most famous restaurant in
Speaker 26Brooklyn history.
Speaker 6Uh, but we needed a lot more money than we would need to open a little, uh, cocktail bar.
Speaker 7Yep.
Speaker 6No one wants to give us money.
Speaker 26not,
Speaker 6We're not, we're but we're not that proven yet. We're not,
Speaker 40yet.
Speaker 6Meyers.
Speaker 40know, Danny Meyers.
Speaker 6these town restaurateurs
Speaker 40from Red Hook,
Speaker 6from Red Hook, Brooklyn.
Speaker 40So,
Speaker 6we
Speaker 26c- crowdfund.
Speaker 6crowdfund.
Speaker 26So
Speaker 6we do regulation, crowdfunding, which is you're making a real investment. You're gonna be paid back in real money and not just a tote bag or something.
Speaker 26And,
Speaker 6um, we have some
Speaker 16Crowdfunders in the
Speaker 6in the room.
Speaker 14room Raise your hand if you're a crowdfunder. How cool is that? All right.
Speaker 6All right.
Speaker 26All right.
Speaker 14Loving that.
Speaker 6Nice. Thank you,
Speaker 16Nice. Thank you, guys. So we-
Speaker 26So
Speaker 14Why am I not surprised right there?
Speaker 6I not surprised right
Speaker 26started,
Speaker 6now?
Speaker 26started the crowdfunding
Speaker 6effort,
Speaker 26basically
Speaker 6to raise some money, but also to create some buzz, to get people talking
Speaker 26it.
Speaker 6about it. Yeah. and it worked, and then we were able to bring in the,
Speaker 26the
Speaker 6bigger equity investors. But we had
Speaker 26450 crowdfunding
Speaker 6investors. That's
Speaker 14That's awesome.
Speaker 26$450,000
Speaker 14great
Speaker 4you know of any other restaurants, like for-profit restaurants that-
Speaker 39equity investors. But we had 450, um, 450 crowdfunding investors. Well- And we raised about $450,000 so do you know of any other restaurants, like for-profit restaurants that were raised like half a million dollars from crowdfunding?
Speaker 5I mean, Death Co. eventually
Speaker 14Yeah, about right.
Speaker 5Yeah. I-- But
Speaker 14I, uh- I'm, I'm crowdfunding for my next house, if anybody would-
Speaker 3If
Speaker 14anybody's interested in that,
Speaker 3I'm
Speaker 14I'm looking for a house on a beach
Speaker 25We
Speaker 4Came with some friends that we dine out with
Speaker 14About three years ago, I guess we came in and
Speaker 25I guess we came in.
Speaker 4And, uh, we're like
Speaker 39like,
Speaker 25"It's ama- it's everything we heard," but then we found out how you put it
Speaker 39together,
Speaker 25And our show, "The Restaurant Guys,"
Speaker 4it's always, uh, customer facing. It's-- you don't have to be in the restaurant business like our show. But I hope that it's interesting to people in the restaurant business and to people in small business and people around community.
Speaker 25community.
Speaker 4people talk about doing
Speaker 15all the time. Mark and I do some consulting. We don't company. I always feel bad 'cause we're the honest consultants, right? Like, whatever check you wrote me for the first meeting, my
Speaker 4piece
Speaker 15piece of advice is,
Speaker 39"Don't
Speaker 15spend any more money even on me. It's a terrible idea. Don't
Speaker 39do this,"
Speaker 25do this," right? Yeah. And people
Speaker 4do it.
Speaker 25like, "Oh,
Speaker 14do it."
Speaker 25crowdfund I'm like, "No, you're not gonna crowdfund
Speaker 14Go home, make some paella.
Speaker 27Yeah,
Speaker 25yeah.
Speaker 14Go
Speaker 4but you actually pulled this off,
Speaker 14Not just pulled it off, it's wonderful place.
Speaker 25yeah. Yeah.
Speaker 26Thanks. Thank you.
Speaker 25And it's not, and it's-
Speaker 4Okay.
Speaker 39a
Speaker 25a
Speaker 4a responsible business and not a pipe dream. So
Speaker 25So
Speaker 4any advice for anybody else who wants to do this and separate themselves from the
Speaker 25daydreamers
Speaker 6I mean, it's tough. The crowdfunding thing is like, it did help us because it it generated a lot of buzz, and to have
Speaker 26450
Speaker 6investors, most of whom live within a couple miles of the restaurant- Yeah really helped with the word of mouth-
Speaker 16Mm-hmm
Speaker 6out there. But it is expensive money. We paid it back at a rate of 1.5X, to the investment, and that
Speaker 26was
Speaker 16What is rough on it?
Speaker 6for the first couple years. And,
Speaker 4and to get in the weeds a little bit, do the crowdfunding retain any equity in the
Speaker 15Do the crowdfunding investors retain any equity in the business
Speaker 16or do they get bought out? No, that's
Speaker 40the
Speaker 6that makes it like super clean. So they get paid back
Speaker 26like
Speaker 6like the investment, and then it's like, Thank you. Our business here is, uh,
Speaker 3and-" "Thank you. Can I get you a drink?" Yeah. And yeah, "Hope to see you again."
Speaker 14I, I just wanna stop what we're doing for a second right here, 'cause those of us who are in the room are drinking a spectacular cocktail-
Speaker 38Yeah. Yeah
Speaker 14is, uh, and I, not to disparage the first two cocktails, but easily my favorite drink of the night. Oh. Wow, this is delicious
Speaker 5Um, this just left our menu, and actually, I think this points
Speaker 14Bring it back
Speaker 5Bring it back. Uh, for the summer. May come back in the fall. But this is kind of our goodbye to this. This is called the Cross Current. But I think this sort of, uh, is a emblematic of the philosophy of Second Harbor Club, which is
Speaker 18Just to sort of take a bird's-eye view of the tropical drink and look
Speaker 5at
Speaker 18at it from its entire history. So from
Speaker 5the
Speaker 18the age of punch and sail all up until today. And the focus here is actually the 1990s
Speaker 41the 19
Speaker 18and its
Speaker 5Dick
Speaker 18Bradsells until-
Speaker 14Oh, hold on. Hold on. 1990s cocktails sucked.
Speaker 18Yeah.
Speaker 41Mm.
Speaker 14Okay?
Speaker 5But Dick Bradsell, you know, in London was creating a lot of modern classics like the Bramble and the Espresso Martini, which to some people may be the devil. But,
Speaker 14There's a place for the espresso martini, Okay?
Speaker 3Okay? There's
Speaker 14a place in my life
Speaker 38life
Speaker 14the espresso martini, and it's- I think for some people and it's
Speaker 5some people, not,
Speaker 14that point in the night where you're starting to go down, but the party's starting to go up.
Speaker 18Yeah.
Speaker 14Okay,
Speaker 18but the, the sad part-
Speaker 5is he created a brilliant rum cocktail that never really crossed over. The Bramble had its moment.
Speaker 28that
Speaker 5Espresso Martini is still having its moment, but
Speaker 28is
Speaker 5Treacle
Speaker 18was his
Speaker 5his drink in the 1990s that was a rum old fashioned with a float of apple juice on the top,
Speaker 28juice on the
Speaker 5we reconstructed this with Blanche Calvados
Speaker 18Constructed this
Speaker 5apple juice because more booze is
Speaker 18with Blanche
Speaker 14Calvados instead of apple juice because more booze is always better. And- Be- and Calvados is always better. There's nothing wrong with some Calvados in, uh, in your life
Speaker 5In my life have been times where I feel like certain genres, we, we hit them and then we move on. And when we opened Sunken Harbor, we had a different old fashioned on the menu that was
Speaker 18provided to us through David Wanderich,
Speaker 5to us through David Wondrich,
Speaker 18which was a, a really interesting story
Speaker 5a, a really interesting story of a admiral, his name is Admiral McMorris, who
Speaker 18served in the Pacific Fleet,
Speaker 5and
Speaker 18he had a very specific scotch old fashioned that
Speaker 5he liked with honey
Speaker 18and Angostura, and then his second officer would always
Speaker 5add
Speaker 18the naval rum
Speaker 5it.
Speaker 18And that was our first old fashioned. That was on the menu for forever. And then just looking at the history of Dick
Speaker 5Dick Bradsell
Speaker 18and realizing that our
Speaker 5program
Speaker 18looks at the entire scope of the tropical drink, we should really pay tribute to the treacle.
Speaker 5Treacle.
Speaker 18Like I've worked at a couple other places. I worked at ZZ's
Speaker 5Clam
Speaker 18where Brian Miller had a version of the treacle. We served the, the actual like two spec
Speaker 5Treacle at Slowly
Speaker 18at Slowly Shirley. But this one, I wanted to do a reconstruction. We made the bitters for this. Um, this is
Speaker 5based
Speaker 18called Abbott's,
Speaker 5formula called Abbott's,
Speaker 18which was the original bitters that was in every cocktail bar before Angostura.
Speaker 5that was in every cocktail bar before Angostura.
Speaker 18And Abbott's
Speaker 5Abbott's
Speaker 18is really rum friendly. It's
Speaker 5It's made
Speaker 18with
Speaker 5chamomile, clove, anise
Speaker 18chamomile, clove, anise seed, and it just kind of has a sharpness- Right that Angostura doesn't have. Quick recipe. Yeah. You have 30 seconds. This is me
Speaker 5and this actually goes into an interesting topic, which is-
Speaker 18and YouTube channel.
Speaker 28online
Speaker 5his Patreon and his YouTube channel.
Speaker 28channel.
Speaker 18the foundation of what Sunken Harbor Club is in terms of like mixology was based on my time with Megan Dorman
Speaker 5Sunken Harbor Club is in terms of, like, mixology
Speaker 18and, Dave Arnold and Don Lee at Existing Conditions. That was the foundation. But then at a certain point, I was
Speaker 5non-alcoholic drinks have become way more of a priority for every cocktail
Speaker 18I need to start teaching myself new stuff." And I started looking at Darcy's work mostly for non-alc stuff, because non-al- non-alcoholic drinks have become way more of a priority for every concept- We're gonna get, we're gonna get, we're gonna get to that later. But the thing that I found out is that soda fountain technique informed all of what Don the Beachcomber did for his first bar. All right. We're gonna... I wanna- Yeah. 'Cause
Speaker 15another
Speaker 25no, no. But honestly, all of that is
Speaker 15came-
Speaker 25but I, I wanna not get away from the l- the line we're going on.
Speaker 5Yeah
Speaker 25brought us to the next topic, which I think is really fascinating. two parts, and we can go in any way we want to, but let's do one and the other.
Speaker 39One
Speaker 25is okay, so Mark and I, we have, by the way,
Speaker 39Stage
Speaker 25Restaurant,
Speaker 39ac-
Speaker 25according to the same Robert Simonson, is the
Speaker 4Oldest
Speaker 25modern craft cocktail bar in America.
Speaker 26Yeah.
Speaker 39So yeah.
Speaker 2592 we started. are
Speaker 39also
Speaker 25That's awesome the first... craft cocktails used to-
Speaker 39used to happen at cocktail bars, and you
Speaker 25You wouldn't go to a f-
Speaker 15Wouldn't go to a fancy restaurant, wouldn't have a cocktail bar, and a regular restaurant wouldn't have a cocktail bar. A regular restaurant-
Speaker 14A regular restaurant wouldn't have cocktails
Speaker 15Right,
Speaker 4No. We were Stage Left s-
Speaker 39Restaurant
Speaker 4first,
Speaker 25and then we started with cocktails.
Speaker 4and then we started the cocktails. I remember that was a-
Speaker 25thing, right?
Speaker 39It
Speaker 25It we were the
Speaker 4First cocktail bar in a restaurant. We started with a restaurant
Speaker 39cocktail
Speaker 25bar in a restaurant, You have the steakhouse and the Sunken Harbor Club, and when I think of steakhouses, we used to
Speaker 39be in a group
Speaker 25the Red Meat Club with some of the other guys who are in
Speaker 39this
Speaker 14There are some folks here from the Red Meat Club
Speaker 15Um,
Speaker 25We'll go on Mondays to different steakhouses. But
Speaker 4There were allow-
Speaker 15and the steakhouse cocktail, you know, we should resurrect it. We'll go on Monday to Stephanie's. There were
Speaker 25cocktails that were considered the steak cocktails. So when you think steakhouse, you think martini,
Speaker 4Manhattan,
Speaker 39Bloody
Speaker 4Mary
Speaker 25straight whiskey, a highball. You guys
Speaker 4You guys open
Speaker 25a very forward-looking cocktail menu to begin with, and a tiki, element. I think it works beautifully. how, do, those two
Speaker 4Things work together. And
Speaker 39was
Speaker 15there a tension between, okay, it's Gage and Toller on a Bloody Mary, a Bloody Bull and a martini
Speaker 39versus,
Speaker 15Garrett is upstairs in the craziest looking
Speaker 14sports coat- Yeah, exac- exactly. And I-- and there are guys coming from Wall Street
Speaker 27Street
Speaker 14suits walking in and sitting downstairs and ordering big steaks, and there are people coming in their Hawaiian shirts and going upstairs
Speaker 39I'm
Speaker 25I'm gonna tell you something
Speaker 14for tiki cocktails
Speaker 25and
Speaker 39just
Speaker 25I'm just gonna turn this one back to you guys to have a
Speaker 4going upstairs- Well, and also I'm gonna tell you something that we didn't happen early, and then we're just how does the whole
Speaker 39beverage
Speaker 4program work in
Speaker 15how do, how does, how does the whole beverage program work in Gage Tollner? 'Cause you
Speaker 4the steakhouse thing, which seems...
Speaker 25Is there
Speaker 4Is there a tension
Speaker 39between the two? How's that all work?
Speaker 40Yeah.
Speaker 26the two? How's that all work? Yeah. So when we were
Speaker 6between the two? How's that all work? Yeah. So when we were opening Gage Tollner, I went to the Brooklyn Historical
Speaker 16have this great asset that's cocktails, but you also have the steakhouse thing, which seems... Is there a tension between the two? How does that all work? Yeah. So when we were opening Gage Tollner, I went to the Brooklyn Historical Society
Speaker 6over in Brooklyn Heights and found 13 boxes of ephemera that
Speaker 26that
Speaker 6the Dewey family, who operated the restaurant for 70 years, had left, to the, uh, society. In these boxes were menus going back to the 1930s. Wow.
Speaker 14Wow
Speaker 6So,
Speaker 26So,
Speaker 6So, what I was able to do was build a spreadsheet. I pulled all the cocktails off of the menu, put them on a spreadsheet, what years they appeared, what prices they were, and
Speaker 16And then
Speaker 6I had this, uh, database of probably 55 cocktails throughout history, throughout post-Prohibition history that I could, uh, draw from. And
Speaker 16the post-Prohibition history that I could, uh, draw from. And so ev-
Speaker 40that I could,
Speaker 6cocktail on the menu
Speaker 40every
Speaker 6downstairs
Speaker 40the
Speaker 26is
Speaker 6from one of these old menus.
Speaker 14Wow
Speaker 39what are those cocktails? That's amazing, first of
Speaker 15all those cocktails, that's amazing.
Speaker 39for that. That's awesome. So what are, what are
Speaker 25what are these, what are those cocktails? That's amazing, first of all. Round of applause for that. Yeah. That's awesome. So what are, what are the
Speaker 39what kind of cocktails were there?
Speaker 26I
Speaker 14People, but just so you know, people who are drinking can't clap. Okay.
Speaker 6it's a steakhouse, but really to be like,
Speaker 26to
Speaker 6be more specific, it's an oyster and chophouse. Okay. So it's
Speaker 40of...
Speaker 26mean, it
Speaker 6was known as a seafood house for a long time. Really? In the, from the
Speaker 26'50s
Speaker 6to the
Speaker 26'70s,
Speaker 6I wanna say. It was- I
Speaker 4didn't know
Speaker 6that primarily known as a seafood house.
Speaker 26house.
Speaker 6so you've got your martinis on there. You've got your Manhattans. You've got your whiskey sours. Then you have, like, these drinks I really love that have vanished but were popular at one point, like a pink lady, like a- Oh.
Speaker 40hand for
Speaker 26hand for the pink lady. Here we go. Nicole, Nicole, you are the pink lady.
Speaker 39the pink lady. You, y- Nicole, Nicole Desmond, you are the pink lady of, of cocktails. I
Speaker 38am today. Yeah, yeah. I'm sorry
Speaker 14I remember making a Pink Lady in, 1986.
Speaker 3there-
Speaker 39That wasn't a pink lady. That was-
Speaker 14That wasn't a Pink Lady. Uh, there- There was no lady in that Pink Lady. There
Speaker 39It was
Speaker 5Well,
Speaker 14was pink.
Speaker 5her, her name was Rose, right? Roses.
Speaker 14Rose's Serenity.
Speaker 5was, that was Roses- Yeah
Speaker 39which is
Speaker 14yeah
Speaker 39corn syrup and
Speaker 25that was Rose's grenadine-
Speaker 26Yeah. which is high fructose- Right corn yeah, you've got that.
Speaker 6You've got
Speaker 40you've got that. You've got the
Speaker 6the perfect martini, which is, uh,
Speaker 26you know,
Speaker 6it's a martini with a little sweet vermouth in it. Oh. It's very good. You got the turf- cocktail. I mean, these are, these are, old drinks with a history that just have
Speaker 26fallen
Speaker 6of favor.
Speaker 4Okay,
Speaker 39so
Speaker 4right, so I think it's great that you recreated that, but you have two different missions here in cocktail world, right?
Speaker 39So
Speaker 4you have these historical cocktails and steakhouse cocktails,
Speaker 39cocktails,
Speaker 4and you and Gary
Speaker 25Garrett together have the Sunken Harbor Club, which is-
Speaker 39is
Speaker 15A different
Speaker 39set
Speaker 15of history. I don't think, you tell me, we saw
Speaker 39the
Speaker 15kind of cocktails that
Speaker 4that
Speaker 15you're serving here,
Speaker 39some
Speaker 15of the best in the country,
Speaker 4but we didn't see them historically at steakhouses
Speaker 39in the past.
Speaker 15but we didn't see them historically at steakhouses in the past.
Speaker 26It's
Speaker 15And what's the tension
Speaker 16there? I would say
Speaker 26the
Speaker 6idea
Speaker 16the Southern Art Club,
Speaker 6Club,
Speaker 16once Garrett got-
Speaker 6involved, I consider, uh, Garrett to be
Speaker 26to be, an extremely talented, a
Speaker 6singularly
Speaker 26uh,
Speaker 6a talented person I agree. the-- thank you. The idea was, the concept upstairs was a
Speaker 26the concept upstairs was a
Speaker 6little muddled
Speaker 26to
Speaker 6begin, but it quickly became
Speaker 26bring in
Speaker 6the best talent that exists and let him do whatever he wants.
Speaker 16Bring in the
Speaker 26l- let him
Speaker 16best talent that exists and let them-
Speaker 15And we'll figure out how to-
Speaker 14And we'll keep an armed guard at the bottom of the stairs and make sure they can't get up there, yeah. I gotta tell you though
Speaker 25tell you,
Speaker 39Noah, so I gotta
Speaker 25Noah, so I gotta tell you. So if you, if you try to come here, and you should do everything you
Speaker 39should do everything you
Speaker 25can to become a member
Speaker 39and,
Speaker 25come to the Sunken Harbor Club. But we came once with some friends, Mark and I, and we,
Speaker 14It was a spur of the moment thing
Speaker 25of the moment thing. And we should call ahead. And we went with some friends. you guys really tried hard to get us in.
Speaker 4Yeah
Speaker 25a seat for four, and Mark was number five.
Speaker 14so I sent-
Speaker 25game of rock, paper, scissors.
Speaker 14Re-playing the rock, paper, scissors game. How come I always get the rock?
Speaker 5here's the interesting thing, is if you go look at the menus of sort of these older, time were called like Polynesian palaces, large
Speaker 18Tiki restaurants, they considered themselves steakhouses.
Speaker 28Oh,
Speaker 18Trader Vic's- Oh, okay considered themselves a steakhouse. Okay. The Mai Kai considered itself a steakhouse.
Speaker 5So
Speaker 18So like, when I signed on for this project, I didn't think it was weird having those two things next to each other, because many times they were all under the same roof in the,
Speaker 5'50s and '60s as
Speaker 18as what was known as continental dining at the time.
Speaker 5definitely
Speaker 18there was
Speaker 5a businessman
Speaker 18in
Speaker 5Chicago
Speaker 18that went to, you know, get a huge Chicago steak and then went to Trader Vic's and had a navy grog in the same
Speaker 15night. Yeah.
Speaker 18And I saw that- In the same place?
Speaker 5Yeah,
Speaker 18No. the Mai
Speaker 5Kai it's-
Speaker 3Same
Speaker 14guy, different place.
Speaker 18Yeah, same guy, different place
Speaker 5guy, different place, and I thought it-- we're just packaging this sort of like mid-century experience in one environment.
Speaker 4Well, okay. So that makes sense
Speaker 25sense to me.
Speaker 15That makes perfect sense
Speaker 25do wanna bring it back to something that we put a pin in earlier on. I,
Speaker 18that we could have pinned in earlier. Uh, let me just humor
Speaker 25everyone. I wanna come back to it. Yeah. You mentioned non-alcoholic
Speaker 14First time he's ever gone back to the pin in the history of the show. I crafted,
Speaker 4time
Speaker 14pin though.
Speaker 4ever gone back to the pen in the history of the show. Two more drinks and I wouldn't have remembered that
Speaker 5I craft-
Speaker 39but-
Speaker 25cra-
Speaker 28I, I,
Speaker 5I, crafted a really good pen, though. So,
Speaker 25a good pin. It was a good pin. So, uh, you talked about
Speaker 39about
Speaker 25soda fountain
Speaker 39uh,
Speaker 25techniques.
Speaker 4you talked about soda fountain techniques. Yeah
Speaker 25Uh, and you talked about non-alcoholic cocktails, and I wanna throw something out there because, I
Speaker 4I spend personally
Speaker 25during COVID, I don't know what mark was, two years that I was obsessed with creating a non-alcoholic cocktail section of our-
Speaker 14yeah.
Speaker 38yeah.
Speaker 14mean, it's, uh, you, you dedicated a lot of time and effort to that
Speaker 39And Mark was ready to beat the crap out
Speaker 4We stop. And we- Well, I
Speaker 14I was like, "We have five.
Speaker 39We have five. Yeah, yeah. Can it be
Speaker 14Okay, do we need 10?"
Speaker 410? We literally,
Speaker 14Yeah,
Speaker 4literally- Yeah, five is pretty
Speaker 14five is pretty good. I know.
Speaker 4You gotta be honest.
Speaker 14I know
Speaker 39nine or 10, and I'm gonna
Speaker 25Say, so we've been doing cocktails,
Speaker 39like
Speaker 25we're the oldest craft cocktail bar in America. I've
Speaker 4I've never worked
Speaker 25worked
Speaker 4harder
Speaker 25to get fewer drinks that I think are really great and that,
Speaker 3It's
Speaker 14harder. Uh, to be honest with you,
Speaker 38harder. Uh, to be honest with you, I-
Speaker 14making non-alcoholic drinks is harder than making alcoholic drinks that are really good
Speaker 5I agree.
Speaker 4Yeah. And I want to make them-
Speaker 25I have to make them t- till I think they're good, and then I have to show them to Mark, and he has to think they're good. So that's like the double whammy.
Speaker 4But I'm gonna say it
Speaker 39say
Speaker 4was really hard and really worth it, and
Speaker 25and I
Speaker 4I think it's really important
Speaker 25really important, though it's not, this is for the restaurant operators out there, it's not a big source of
Speaker 4revenue
Speaker 25for us. I, think it, takes away a lot of vetoes, it takes
Speaker 4It takes away a lot of
Speaker 25no's, and in a party of six, who's gonna say-
Speaker 15Yeah
Speaker 25another one?" "Nah, I'm gonna go home." Oh, I'll have a non-alcoholic drink." "Oh, I'll have one." "Okay, then we'll all stay." You know, or the one person who doesn't drink,
Speaker 4They have an
Speaker 15They have an adult beverage
Speaker 39beverage
Speaker 3in
Speaker 14lot of people come with groups of eight, right? Well, not to Sunken Harbor Club.
Speaker 27a lot of people come out with
Speaker 14but a lot of people come out with a, with a group of eight, and seven of the people drink and, and one of the person doesn't drink. So having something to offer that person makes you their favorite place.
Speaker 3and-
Speaker 14And they're gonna drag your other seven people to your place. want-
Speaker 38Garrett's.
Speaker 14Garrett's, they're gonna drag your other three people to your place.
Speaker 39three
Speaker 3so I-
Speaker 39So, a
Speaker 25A non-alcoholic drink has to have an adult feel to it. It has to have a stop. It has to have something that is not gulpable. It's
Speaker 14The stop
Speaker 25is super important in
Speaker 14is super important in the drink
Speaker 4whether it's a, or a bitterness or a spice
Speaker 39or
Speaker 4a,
Speaker 25a
Speaker 4something.
Speaker 25So
Speaker 4you have spent a lot of time
Speaker 25spent a lot of time creating non-alcoholic drinks that really make a lot of sense, that aren't just a pretty glass with juice in it, right?
Speaker 5Yeah, and we, we opened with a few. but at Existing Conditions it was,
Speaker 18conditions,
Speaker 5very important part.
Speaker 18it was like a very important part. I feel like Existing Conditions was like super ahead of
Speaker 5curve on
Speaker 18the curve on this, and that's mostly because of,
Speaker 28of,
Speaker 18uh, Bobby Murphy, who was one of the head bartenders at Existing who came from Next
Speaker 5in Chicago.
Speaker 18in Chicago. Uh, and they were, you know, like pretty advanced,
Speaker 5and they were, pretty advanced, uh, in
Speaker 18terms of
Speaker 5of
Speaker 18seeing where things were
Speaker 5going.
Speaker 18But
Speaker 5when
Speaker 18we opened, we had a few non-al
Speaker 5drinks, but I
Speaker 18I think the struggle was figuring out, okay, what is the direction of this? And generally speaking, like, when we have a struggle on our menu, we try to go back to source. We try to go back to, like,
Speaker 5primary...
Speaker 18like what is the original non-alc cocktail? And for us, it was the everything from the soda fountain movement because it was the reaction to, you know, the whole Harry Johnson super
Speaker 5boozy
Speaker 18boozy movement, and they had to make something
Speaker 5equally
Speaker 18to people that were interested in prohibition
Speaker 5and interested
Speaker 18in being sober. And looking at all those drinks, you realize that they could be, like, as complex and as interesting as a cocktail, once we figured That, out,
Speaker 5it
Speaker 18was a matter of representing sort of the icons of the soda fountain movement.
Speaker 5So
Speaker 18on our menu right now, we have The Elixir, which is based on Moxie
Speaker 5soda, which was the
Speaker 18soda, which was the first original-
Speaker 5branded
Speaker 18soda in a bottle, Teddy Roosevelt was a fan of.
Speaker 28basically a gentian
Speaker 18it's basically a gentian root beer, which if you talk to any cocktail person,
Speaker 5they're
Speaker 18they're like, "I like Suze. I like root beer." And then-
Speaker 14But gentian has that stop. That's exactly what Francis was talking about, right?
Speaker 18It
Speaker 5that bitterness.
Speaker 18has that bitterness. Yep.
Speaker 5through it, and we make all the flavorings for it. We make the extracts for it. We make the essences for it. And once you understand that sort of you can make
Speaker 28these
Speaker 5flavorings that can exist in,
Speaker 28like
Speaker 5a small window, then you
Speaker 18can make really good non-alcoholic drinks. Basically, you have 0.5% alcohol
Speaker 5by
Speaker 18volume that you can work under to be technically non-alcoholic
Speaker 39I also think there's a, there's a parallel I think that when you take coffee, which is an adult beverage, which is a bitter beverage, and you
Speaker 15Put, you know, seven pumps of caramel, two pumps of chocolate, three big dips of cream, and some whipped cream on top. You juvenileize
Speaker 25know, seven pumps of caramel, two pumps of chocolate, three p-pits of cream and some whipped cream on top. You an adult beverage.
Speaker 39Whereas
Speaker 25with
Speaker 15Soda, like Italian sodas and bitter sodas and Suze, non-alcoholic Suze, like Suze Zero is fantastic. Um, you can a- you can adultify
Speaker 25like Italian sodas and bitter sodas and Suze, non-alcoholic Suze, like Suze Zero is fantastic. Zero a- you can adultify a drink without it being necessarily alcoholic.
Speaker 27something first?
Speaker 14I just wanna jump in a little bit and realize that, that Garrett's coming at this from a, from a different perspective than most people who are in restaurants come at the non-alcoholic movement. and I think that the rest of the, restaurateurs have to change their, their point of view a little bit, because what they're thinking about is, What do I give the 15-year-old who wants, uh,
Speaker 3who-
Speaker 14who wants to pretend they're drinking?" Instead of, "What do I give the adult who wants something that's savory and delicious and is cocktail-like but doesn't have alcohol?" The restaurateur and the bar t- bar owner have to change their perspective a little bit most of these cocktails are not for the 15-year-old, they're for the adult
Speaker 25bit of advice to restaurateurs and bartenders out there,
Speaker 39here's the
Speaker 25here's the advice: when you have a non-alcoholic cocktail program, invite a bunch of kids in, and as long as they hate it, you're
Speaker 5Yeah,
Speaker 25right. Yeah. Yeah, you're doing
Speaker 5you're golden.
Speaker 25I,
Speaker 5Yeah
Speaker 25to say, and it's funny, I always look at school teachers
Speaker 39I think, "I
Speaker 25and I think I could never do that. I literally-
Speaker 14I, you know, it's funny, I look at school teachers and think, "Francis could never do that."
Speaker 15A
Speaker 14lot of business or unique business people in the door.
Speaker 25Um, so here's the, here's a
Speaker 39c- thing that I
Speaker 25thing that
Speaker 39crazy,
Speaker 25and I think is pretty wonderful,
Speaker 39and
Speaker 25it, it mirrors the country
Speaker 39that's ripping itself apart that we live in right now. We have the two hottest categories in
Speaker 25ripping itself apart that we live in right now.
Speaker 39and
Speaker 25the two hottest categories in cocktails are the non-alcoholic sphere and the martini.
Speaker 5Mm-hmm.
Speaker 4Yeah
Speaker 25that to me? are you seeing that
Speaker 39that here at Cajun
Speaker 25here at Gage Tollner as well?
Speaker 26I mean, w- we've seen
Speaker 6seen that from
Speaker 26day one. When people go downstairs, there's
Speaker 6Just something about the
Speaker 16you seeing that here at Gage
Speaker 14Tollner in South Harbor? I mean, we've seen that from, uh, day one. When people go downstairs, there's just something
Speaker 16about the atmosphere just screams martini. Mm-hmm.
Speaker 6Yeah. It's like you just need to have one
Speaker 26in your
Speaker 6in
Speaker 26quickly as possible, and that it's by far-
Speaker 39for
Speaker 14But I,
Speaker 26that's
Speaker 27Tuesday for
Speaker 25me.
Speaker 27Yeah. I
Speaker 14I was thinking that's half an hour from now for me
Speaker 16Later
Speaker 26Like,
Speaker 6it's not a trend for us. It's always
Speaker 4been
Speaker 39are, egghead-y, smart, you're both
Speaker 4part of the business plan. Yeah, but, but, but for now- Thank, thank you, Brendan I just think 'cause you guys
Speaker 39you've, you're well-read, How is it
Speaker 4How is it that the martini was not the of
Speaker 39drinks, uh, before COVID? And everybody's writing about martinis. Ev- freezer
Speaker 14There's a martini expo now, right?
Speaker 25martinis, every freezer martinis- There's a martini expo now nitrogen martinis. Yeah. Robert's Martini
Speaker 4martinis. Yeah. Robert's Martini Expo, and also non-alcoholic drinks
Speaker 25and also non-alcoholic drinks weren't heard years ago. And now
Speaker 39are
Speaker 25I... Would
Speaker 4Biggest
Speaker 25are two of of, of beverages for adults in America right now? Or am I wrong?
Speaker 26Yeah, I
Speaker 6I mean, I think the, I think the non-alc thing is, is important to talk about, but I, I feel like
Speaker 40it,
Speaker 6it can--
Speaker 26it's
Speaker 6probably the, like the market share of the non-alc drink has probably
Speaker 26grown,
Speaker 6you know,
Speaker 263X, but it's
Speaker 40but it's
Speaker 14Yeah, from .2 to .6,
Speaker 26pretty...
Speaker 6but it's like,
Speaker 14right?
Speaker 6it's still- Yeah, from .2 to .6 still pretty-- exactly. It's still pretty small. Yeah. But I like, I love the way that Garrett thinks about it. I
Speaker 40we
Speaker 6really do take the time to try to craft something that's really good. Uh,
Speaker 40we have not had a lot to work with, like the,
Speaker 26the
Speaker 6the quote-unquote, uh, spirits that they sell that are
Speaker 26like,
Speaker 6uh, non-alcoholic, I don't understand them for the most part. I don't get it, I I really like, uh, the Pathfinder.
Speaker 14Pathfinders.
Speaker 3Yeah.
Speaker 14it's funny, I was just about to yell at you and say, "No, Pathfinder's delicious." That is the only one that anything else you're making
Speaker 5But the Pathfinder is fantastic.
Speaker 26it kinda
Speaker 6but it opens the door. So I think that, I think there's there, and I can't
Speaker 26wait to
Speaker 6see what comes next. But we're still waiting for those- Mm-hmm ...those
Speaker 26great
Speaker 6great non-alcohols.
Speaker 26spirits to exist
Speaker 39wanna, I wanna weigh in on that just 'cause w- and I want, Garrett, I wanna hear what you have to say about this. What I found is that, the problem with non-alcoholic spirits is to make a good one, they generally wind up being more expensive to produce than the alcoholic spirits, right?
Speaker 14Well, 'cause you go all the way to alcoholic spirit and then you do something to it to make it
Speaker 27not
Speaker 3it not, not alcohol. Right.
Speaker 4So,
Speaker 14not alcoholic
Speaker 4you make a-- So we have a gin and-- I think Ransom makes a great, uh
Speaker 25gin replacer, right? And, so there's a Ransom non-alcoholic gin. Now, you can't
Speaker 4You can't make a martini
Speaker 39out
Speaker 25that. It'll never give you the texture, the bite, the alcohol. But if you make a bee's knees with it, a non-alcoholic bee's knees with honey and the like, it will give you the aromatic.
Speaker 39It's
Speaker 25a
Speaker 4It's a hydrosoluble
Speaker 25with juniper and other aromatics, so it will give you that...
Speaker 4It'll feel like there's gin in it. There's gin in the nose and, uh, and then we-- I, I use that and I like it. And I think that non-alcoholic beers are amazing. I think non-alcoholic, the spirits like
Speaker 25Pathfinder, like the vermouths and
Speaker 15that were moves and things they've
Speaker 25get
Speaker 4get
Speaker 25character from herbs and the like are doing great. Guinness Zero is 90% of a Guinness. Yep. I'm sorry, it is.
Speaker 39And
Speaker 25if you're, and if you're in Ireland, bar that has Guinness- Has Guinness on draft on draft
Speaker 4Sarah?
Speaker 25Guinness Zero on draft. Mm-hmm.
Speaker 39Um, and what I find that what people are doing is they're
Speaker 25Zebra striping
Speaker 39Yep.
Speaker 25And I find
Speaker 15Do
Speaker 14you, everybody know what zebra striping is? Where you alcoholic,
Speaker 3alcoholic, non
Speaker 14non-alcoholic
Speaker 39But what I
Speaker 25think is crazy is that, the martini has... you know, we're, we do a lot of shows on
Speaker 39the martini.
Speaker 14In Chicago in October, by the way, Martini Expo. In September, just like I said the first time.
Speaker 25Jennifer's there to keep us on track. Uh, but you guys, I mean, you guys are known for your martini. You were
Speaker 4said the first time. Sandra's there to keep us on track. Uh, but you guys, I mean, you guys are known for your martini. You were semifinalists in the-
Speaker 5Yeah recent 2024 Sunken Harbor Club, I feel like once we decided, "Okay, we need a
Speaker 18genie on the menu because there are people running this program, there are people that come into Sunken Harbor Club that don't understand that it's specified- You
Speaker 14mean they're
Speaker 5you know, they're waiting to go downstairs. And, like, at the
Speaker 18Beginning, I feel like the program
Speaker 28Program
Speaker 5a little more towards that, where we had a lot of crossover
Speaker 18over drinks, like the old fashioned that we were talking about-
Speaker 5that Dave
Speaker 18Wanders helped us at a certain point, we realized people are
Speaker 5are
Speaker 18going to ask for a martini no matter what, and we need to figure out what is the thing that we put our stamp on and say, "This is our martini." Because we had the El Presidente
Speaker 41El Presidente
Speaker 18earlier, that's a,
Speaker 5a,
Speaker 18maybe a bridge too far for people that want gin and vermouth. and Tom Wolfson, who is now, helping me run the program, really wanted to go
Speaker 5"Hey,
Speaker 18what if we do a dirty martini that has,
Speaker 28like
Speaker 18some brine in it?" And then, uh, Shannon Lynch, who used to work here, also was like, "I wanna do a sesame martini." And I told them, I was like, "You need to R&D together because you're basically talking about the same thing." And their collaboration ended up being this martini that's now called The Immortal Martini, and the name comes from
Speaker 5a
Speaker 18legend that sesame oil would basically make you immortal when people first discovered that they could press
Speaker 5oil out
Speaker 18of sesame. And I thought it would be a really fun name yeah, it ended up being this sort of unique, weird thing where we did a freezer martini that had all these sort of layers from the kitchen, like gochujang and sesame oil. But it was very different than what
Speaker 5was going on
Speaker 18was going on downstairs. I'm proud of both of them for making it so far with such a weird martini last year.
Speaker 15We're I gotta say
Speaker 39you know, the first time we met, you were like, "You're
Speaker 25You're the celebrities. We're like,
Speaker 15You're the first guy that ever recognized us. Yeah, but it's crazy that it's so many years ago. My first time I met you was behind the bar at the Pagan Club in Wisconsin. We've all come so far
Speaker 39guy that ever recognized us." Uh, but it's crazy
Speaker 25guy that ever recognized us." Uh, but it's crazy that so many years have gone by. First time I met you was behind the bar of the Pagan Club in Spokane. We've all come so far.
Speaker 39none of us have gotten rich, sadly, but we've come very- we've come very, very
Speaker 14We went into the restaurant and bar business. It is not, that is not the answer
Speaker 39I know. I'm still hoping. I play the lottery every week. but one of the things I wanna, touch on is, there's history to this.
Speaker 25I think the reason we care is we are part of a story, and this is part of our culture, and I think that's really important.
Speaker 15Important. Um
Speaker 25We have to
Speaker 39acknowledge a few people i- in talking about this. We have to acknowledge, for the tiki and
Speaker 25tropical cocktails, we have to acknowledge Don Beach and Victor Bergeron
Speaker 5And Jeff Barry And, and Jeff Barry
Speaker 4without-
Speaker 25and Jeff Berry- Yeah without whom all those recipes would've died. Um, uh, but we also wanna acknowledge Charles Baker, and we talk a lot about Charles Baker, who wrote "The Gentleman's Companion." And I
Speaker 27think if- Hey, hey, Francis
Speaker 14we're acknowledging, can, can, we acknowledge Diplomatico and Brown-Forman since they sponsored today?
Speaker 3we're
Speaker 4all
Speaker 14Since
Speaker 5we're all doing that
Speaker 39the booze. So to Diplomatico Rum
Speaker 14we're all here today 'cause of them. Thank you.
Speaker 39today
Speaker 5but you were talking about Charles H. Baker. Mm-hmm. And Sinjin has written a lot about Charles H. Baker and helped bring back things like the Remember the Maine and all that. But Sinjin, did some
Speaker 41Research
Speaker 5about Charles H. Baker that is brand new. Nobody knows about
Speaker 25I wanna lead into this with just a moment. so this is Charles H. Baker,
Speaker 15He's one of the most important people in the survival of the cocktail. He's not as well known, and for a while he was just forgotten. For a while he-
Speaker 25of the most important people in the survival of the cocktail. He's not as well known, and for a while he was just forgotten. For a while, he was the most important guy writing about food and drink. Um, anyway, so he wrote an amazing book, um, which I picked
Speaker 4Stop at the
Speaker 25the Far Hills Rummage Sale in 1987-
Speaker 39"The Gentleman's
Speaker 25Oh. "The Gentleman's Companion." Wow. And
Speaker 4This was, uh, this was the
Speaker 39second
Speaker 4edition
Speaker 15How about the '46 version
Speaker 4'87, this was-- it was 10 cents for paperbacks and 25 cents for hardcovers. What? You sprung? And they tried to charge me 50
Speaker 2550
Speaker 4cents 'cause it has two books in it. I was like, "Come on, that's one
Speaker 15of
Speaker 4can have it for a, for a quarter." Anyway, so
Speaker 39th-
Speaker 4th- these are,
Speaker 14it?
Speaker 3literally
Speaker 14Far Hills Rummage Sale in '87, this was-- it was 10 cents for paperbacks and 25 cents for hardcovers. You sprung? And they tried to charge me 50 cents 'cause it has two books in it. I was like: "Come on, that's one book." She's like: "Okay, you can have it." You can have it for a quarter. Anyway, so th-these are, these are- He literally bought that book for a quarter, and I'm not-- he's not kidding
Speaker 25These
Speaker 4are... And I r-
Speaker 25r-
Speaker 4and here's the thing about,
Speaker 39what the,
Speaker 25the difference between
Speaker 4the difference between you and me, and Dale DeGroff and me, is I read this book and I tri- I was like,
Speaker 39"Uh,
Speaker 4This seems,
Speaker 39important,
Speaker 25but
Speaker 4but I can't... I try to make these drinks and they fucking suck," right? Cause I didn't know how to read the book, and I didn't know how to put it in context. And Charles H. Baker is one of
Speaker 25of the most
Speaker 4important and authentic guys around, and kind
Speaker 25a
Speaker 4artist. And
Speaker 39And
Speaker 4so what I have provided you was the
Speaker 14So you're actually channeling him
Speaker 4him. I am.
Speaker 39yeah. See what I did there? So what I've provided
Speaker 25So what I provided you here is I provided the Remember the Maine
Speaker 4recipe, which you will find. It's still a contemporary cocktail. It's a great cocktail.
Speaker 39And
Speaker 4two of the books that appear, one is from
Speaker 25an article
Speaker 4an article that you wrote,
Speaker 25wrote,
Speaker 4which is with fucking Hemingway and a big fish, okay? So totally legit.
Speaker 25The second is
Speaker 4The second is the inside cover from his
Speaker 25cookery
Speaker 4cookery book, which is
Speaker 15inside cover from his
Speaker 25horseshit-
Speaker 4from and being like-- And here's the thing. I have a fr- we have a
Speaker 39fr- We
Speaker 25we have a
Speaker 4friend like this. I have a friend who's like, so Francis, I'm-- And he'd be telling me these crazy stories. He wrote freelance for "The New York Times,"
Speaker 39"I'm
Speaker 4write an article in 'The New York Times' about your wine class if you let me take, just sit in on."
Speaker 25I'm like, Yeah, okay, Peter, you can sit in on my wine class fine, no problem at all." Fucking above and below the fold in the food section
Speaker 15section of the Times is
Speaker 4article on
Speaker 25on
Speaker 15the article on our wine class." I'm like... And he's like, "I'm gonna be a war correspondent
Speaker 25And he's
Speaker 4He's like, "I'm gonna be a war correspondent in, uh, in the Middle East." I'm like,
Speaker 25like,
Speaker 4"Oh, sure." And then
Speaker 25And I'm like,
Speaker 4"Yeah, whatever." I'm watching the news
Speaker 25there's fucking Peter reporting from Beirut." Burn a
Speaker 39blowing up behind him.
Speaker 25of what comes out of that guy's mouth is bullshit, but you
Speaker 4but they don't know which 10% is which. And his life is really
Speaker 15I agree,
Speaker 6is.
Speaker 26So Charles Baker,
Speaker 16it's fucking interesting. Is that the case with this guy? Yeah, it is.
Speaker 26the, the
Speaker 6photo that you referred to, it's him, like, laying in a hammock being fanned by a woman in a grass skirt and being served a cocktail by a little girl
Speaker 26in a grass skirt. And
Speaker 6the older woman with the fan is his wife, And the young girl with the tray is his daughter.
Speaker 39Ah.
Speaker 6And the,
Speaker 26the,
Speaker 6the photo was taken in '39, when he was about 44 years old. And I got in touch with his, uh, daughter, and she helped me research
Speaker 40his-
Speaker 6his- Oh, that's awesome his life. And I really got to know her and got to know him through her, and she gave me the shaker that's in that, uh, photo.
Speaker 14Oh, how cool is that?
Speaker 25Which
Speaker 26I have
Speaker 6was cool. Wow. Was that- Amazing.
Speaker 14drink was shaken in that shaker, in
Speaker 4Yeah in that very
Speaker 14very shaker
Speaker 26drink
Speaker 25was shaken in that- that You're the m- most
Speaker 4Expert guide
Speaker 25I've ever met on Charles H. Baker, who was everywhere. I mean, he's literally
Speaker 39dining
Speaker 4with Errol
Speaker 25Flynn
Speaker 4Flynn and,
Speaker 25you know- writing
Speaker 4writing every
Speaker 25he's
Speaker 39the
Speaker 25the authority on... Wait, I have a quote.
Speaker 39um, this is from Esquire,
Speaker 4No. Okay. But yeah, yeah, yeah. Yeah. He says, um, this is from Esquire Baker fished with Hemingway off the Bimini coast, downed flaming apple brandy in the back room of a New Jersey inn with Bill Faulkner,
Speaker 39joined
Speaker 4Errol Flynn and Robert
Speaker 39Frost
Speaker 25for a beachfront dinner south of Miami- Yeah featuring
Speaker 4Featuring four-inch steaks and potatoes
Speaker 25boiled in pine resin- Yep better than any
Speaker 39potato
Speaker 4ever baked in a mortal oven. If you-- This is live. If you ever-- This is in Esquire. If you
Speaker 25line. If you ever-- This is in
Speaker 4ever wondered whose oyster the world is, meet
Speaker 15Carl Inc. I mean, that's it. That's what I want on my headstone. Pisco sour was his true love
Speaker 4H. Baker.
Speaker 25I
Speaker 39mean, I, uh, that's it.
Speaker 25that's it. That's what I want on my headstone. So how
Speaker 39of that is bullshit? How
Speaker 25much
Speaker 39is true? What's the story? What, what happened with that-
Speaker 40I
Speaker 26of that- Yeah is bullshit, how much is
Speaker 6True? What's the story?
Speaker 26happened?
Speaker 6happened? I
Speaker 26it's
Speaker 6it's all pretty true as it turns out. He,
Speaker 26he
Speaker 6was from a f- family of like northern industrialists,
Speaker 26industrialists,
Speaker 6who moved down to Florida. He was born in a very small town called
Speaker 26Zellwood, Florida,
Speaker 6Zellwood, Florida, and considered himself a, Floridian. He, came into some money in
Speaker 261926,
Speaker 6took a cruise around the world,
Speaker 16Got hooked on the, the around the world cruise experience, ended up working for the cruise line. And in 1931
Speaker 6hooked on the, the
Speaker 26around
Speaker 6the world cruise experience, ended up working for the cruise line. And in 1931,
Speaker 2632,
Speaker 6'32, he met, Pauline, uh,
Speaker 26Paulson,
Speaker 6who was the heiress of the Hercules Silver Mine up in Spokane, Washington, one of the biggest
Speaker 14heiress of the Hercules Silver Mine up in Spokane, Washington's biggest load- Jennifer, I am so mad at you right now. I am so mad
Speaker 3am single. I
Speaker 6just
Speaker 4want
Speaker 3to let you know. He was-
Speaker 39the audience, I am single.
Speaker 6He was, uh, 36. She was
Speaker 2619 at the time, traveling with her mother.
Speaker 6But they fell in love, they got married in a weird, uh, ceremony in Hong Kong, um, and then got married for real when they got back to the US and
Speaker 26were t-
Speaker 6were together. I mean, it sounds like a,
Speaker 40a, crazy
Speaker 6story until now. I
Speaker 26they
Speaker 6were together for the rest of their lives, and they lived till, till very old age. Probably.
Speaker 39John Bl-
Speaker 26And-
Speaker 39right?
Speaker 29they
Speaker 26were 87, right? 80,
Speaker 14Yeah, in the '80s
Speaker 6the '80s. And they, and, and they loved each other, and they had kids, and, um,
Speaker 26they
Speaker 6lived, uh, very happy lives. I got you know, I got really fascinated with, uh, Charles H. Baker in 2000, which, or yeah, 2000
Speaker 40kind of a long time ago.
Speaker 26time ago. Yeah.
Speaker 6And, up writing an article for "The Oxford American" that was the only long form, uh, biographical article ever about him. I was working at, Bon Appétit at the time, and the New York Library was right down the street, so I'd go there on my lunch break
Speaker 26and research.
Speaker 6I was always, uh, fascinated with him, and like you said,
Speaker 26it's the contextualizing.
Speaker 6it's the contextualizing.
Speaker 16The recipes often don't work. That's not what it's about. It's about the story around
Speaker 6the
Speaker 16the
Speaker 6and
Speaker 16recipe and about the setting and who- Travelogue you're sort of drinking with. Right. It's more about travel and setting than-
Speaker 6than anything else. And, and, and I've always approached sort of restaurants and bars that way, which is the what's in your
Speaker 16Your glasses
Speaker 6is really important, but what's happening outside of your glass is
Speaker 26is
Speaker 6equally important
Speaker 26the
Speaker 6to the experience.
Speaker 26what
Speaker 6uh, Garrett is referring to is I recently met this guy named,
Speaker 16Jeremy Lopez, who
Speaker 6and,
Speaker 16um, is the new Baker historian on the scene.
Speaker 6historian on the scene.
Speaker 4Wow.
Speaker 26He's
Speaker 6the chair of the English, department there.
Speaker 26He's
Speaker 6a great guy. He doesn't know anything about cocktails,
Speaker 26So,
Speaker 6Oh for,
Speaker 26for
Speaker 6me to interact with him and to introduce him to other cocktail, uh,
Speaker 16Wow. He's the chair of the English, uh, uh, department there. He's a great guy. He doesn't know anything about cocktails.
Speaker 26he's
Speaker 6terribly
Speaker 16terribly interesting. So
Speaker 6the other night, he
Speaker 16the other night, he came by the club, drove in from, uh, Jersey, uh, w- took a drink because he had a few drinks here at the club. And, uh,
Speaker 26We were talking
Speaker 6We were talking about stuff, and he was like, "Oh, did you ever hear of this bar in
Speaker 16we were talking about stuff, and he was like, "Oh, did you ever hear of this bar in Cambridge, Massachus-"
Speaker 6that was like a Charles H. Baker themed bar?"
Speaker 16And I was like, "No, I was-"
Speaker 6No." I
Speaker 16There's a what?
Speaker 6what time are we talking about?" He's
Speaker 26like,
Speaker 6"Oh, this is
Speaker 26like in the
Speaker 6like in the '60s." And I was like, "No, I'm pretty sure I would've heard of it if that's
Speaker 26the
Speaker 6the case." And so
Speaker 40And
Speaker 26the
Speaker 6next day, he sent me a PDF of a bunch of articles from, the Boston Globe,
Speaker 26three
Speaker 6articles about a bar in the Brattle Theatre in Cambridge, in Harvard Square, they had a restaurant downstairs called Club, Casablanca, which was, based on,
Speaker 40Rick's American
Speaker 6Cafe
Speaker 16the Raddall Theatre called- Does this sound familiar?
Speaker 6the movie, that everyone loved, and they decided to open this other bar above the
Speaker 26projectionist
Speaker 6booth in the Brattle Theatre-
Speaker 5this sound familiar at all?
Speaker 26called
Speaker 6The Grand Turk. It was named after a boat that-
Speaker 26sailed from, uh, Cambridge, Mass to somewhere.
Speaker 14it sink?
Speaker 6No,
Speaker 26but the...
Speaker 6the... So the bar had three rooms. It had the Rangoon room, it had the East India room, and it had another room that was built to look like a, captain's
Speaker 26quarters.
Speaker 6And I'm like, tell me more." They piped in the sound of waves breaking- Wow. That's
Speaker 14That's amazing
Speaker 6we do at the Sunken Harbor Club. Oh,
Speaker 5yeah. This is crazy coincidence. They
Speaker 6were serving- Yeah all Charles H. Baker Jr.
Speaker 26drinks
Speaker 6at
Speaker 26this place,
Speaker 6this place, and even ran the recipes in the newspaper, which if you, compare them to the recipes in the book, which I did, they're they're note for note, they're the exact same drinks. So they, th- there was a Charles Baker themed bar in Cambridge, Mass in
Speaker 261966,
Speaker 16Opened by
Speaker 6by the guys that owned the Brattle Theatre, who were also the guys who started Janus
Speaker 26Films,
Speaker 6the film, uh, distribution company that introduced Americans to
Speaker 26Fellini,
Speaker 6Fellini, Bergman, Godard- Wow you name it.
Speaker 14So what, so- The originals So what
Speaker 3rich,
Speaker 14is it now? Not from the barn. So what is it now?
Speaker 6from the bar.
Speaker 40I
Speaker 3is it now? And let's buy.
Speaker 6I know.
Speaker 40Well-
Speaker 26there's a
Speaker 6there's a bar down
Speaker 26the
Speaker 6the street called Husong Road that, that we need to, we need to talk,
Speaker 26we
Speaker 6need to figure this out, and figure out how this spiritual predecessor of the Sunken Harbor Club ended up there, and do something with Husong Road to, to bring them back- Pay tribute, yeah if only for a moment. Yeah.
Speaker 4One
Speaker 25the-
Speaker 39Road to, to bring it
Speaker 14restaurant
Speaker 40Yeah if only for a moment.
Speaker 5Yeah. If
Speaker 14guys than you
Speaker 5exists,
Speaker 14could. buy it. Yeah. Just a thought.
Speaker 4The
Speaker 6Rattletail is still there. The Rattletail is still there
Speaker 26there
Speaker 4Well, I wanna read
Speaker 39to you from the book of, uh, Charles H. Baker, just a, a couple things. His writing was amazing. He was a great writer. And honestly, one of the things about you guys is you're both writers, you're both well-read, and, y-
Speaker 4these books were, and there were several books that
Speaker 15that these books were, and there were several books that came after
Speaker 4that
Speaker 25and, uh, many, many articles that came after that, they were
Speaker 4they were
Speaker 25we talked about contextualizing. Mm-hmm. Yeah. And what, what have
Speaker 15Recipe books become for a long time, but a list of ingredients and techniques and a, an encyclopedia
Speaker 25books
Speaker 4become for a long time
Speaker 25but a list of ingredients and techniques and a, an encyclopedia of i-ingredients, techni-techniques.
Speaker 4What have they become again? And what have cocktail books become again?
Speaker 15What have they become again? And what have cocktail books become again? But a story giving you the context and interspersed in the story of someone's life...
Speaker 4giving you the context and interspersed in the story of someone's life or some town or some village,
Speaker 25you have the context of the dish. And I wanna--
Speaker 39We're
Speaker 25gonna bring this, quickly to
Speaker 4quickly to a
Speaker 15quickly to
Speaker 4close, but I wanna
Speaker 15a close, but I wanna
Speaker 25end with, 'cause this was personal to me.
Speaker 15So
Speaker 4this is his book of cookery, which doesn't really get a lot of... So there's a, the twin, you have a book of exotic cookery and you have the book of,
Speaker 15is his book of cookery, which doesn't really get a lot of... So it was a, it's a twin. You have a book of exotic cookery, and you have the book of, um-
Speaker 25Cocktails." And the thing about the
Speaker 15Exotic cocktails was this was the period of, you know, the expatriate writers who were writing about the exotic France and Italy
Speaker 4cocktails was this was in
Speaker 25this was
Speaker 4the period of, you
Speaker 25the
Speaker 4expatriate writers who were writing about the exotic France
Speaker 25and Italy and, and, uh, not so much Germany. Um, but, but, uh, uh- Spain the
Speaker 4Richard Worsfold, Spain.
Speaker 25He wrote a lot about the,
Speaker 4or just an unfamiliarity.
Speaker 25and- Mm-hmm
Speaker 4He wrote a lot about the, the, the, Far East and, and, and the Caribbean and sailing destinations. Uh, but the book of cookery
Speaker 25"Book of Cookery"
Speaker 4never took off
Speaker 25and I'm trying to... Mark and I
Speaker 4I just came up with
Speaker 25the idea earlier
Speaker 4the idea earlier that
Speaker 25we're gonna try and do something in our restaurant. We may do
Speaker 39a
Speaker 4Dinner with
Speaker 25some cocktails from his cocktail book
Speaker 15Mark and
Speaker 4some cocktails from his cocktail book
Speaker 15I just came up with the idea earlier that we're gonna try and do something in our restaurant. We may do a
Speaker 14dinner with some cocktails from his cocktail book and some, some, uh- Some cookery
Speaker 25cookery books some cookery from
Speaker 4cookery some cookery Some cookery?
Speaker 25So keep your eyes peeled for that. But for personal reasons, I have to read you about his, um...
Speaker 14I'm sorry, whenever Francis says for personal reasons, I get a little scared. Okay? I don't know about the rest of you, but I've known him a really long time, and I get a little scared.
Speaker 25he gives you the context of all the recipes. This is, Mr. Daven's
Speaker 4Irish
Speaker 15Davin's Irish Colt Cannon. The rest of it's all wrong. I can't,
Speaker 25give you many original Irish recipes.
Speaker 4There is no great variety of cooking in the island.
Speaker 39"Mostly
Speaker 17give you many original Irish recipes. There is no great variety of cookie in the
Speaker 15island. Mostly baking-
Speaker 4and potatoes ad infinitum. They just never think of varying it. Occasionally a bit of lamb, veal, or beef, but only when there's been an accident on the farm.
Speaker 28That's
Speaker 5That's a rough assessment. Jesus.
Speaker 14I
Speaker 39I
Speaker 25I vaguely hate this
Speaker 39guy,
Speaker 25he's probably
Speaker 14really,
Speaker 4Yeah
Speaker 14I randomly hate this guy.
Speaker 39"City cuisine
Speaker 25is, of course, like any other, more or less international and nothing in particular. The only dish I know that's truly Irish is one seldom duplicated elsewhere, colcannon, an old
Speaker 4Gaelic name. Just imagine it, will you? One immense mound of mashed potatoes
Speaker 39seasoned
Speaker 4with pepper,
Speaker 15Salt and so mashed and whipped with butter and cream until it is a fine, light consistency. Leaning around the sides of this mound are strips
Speaker 4and so mashed and whipped with butter and cream- Mm ...until it is a fine, light consistency. Leaning around the sides of this mound are strips of fried Irish bacon cut into edible
Speaker 15size.
Speaker 4Sunken in the top of this foot-high mound, hollowed out like a crater
Speaker 15Sunken in the
Speaker 4is
Speaker 25a
Speaker 15top of this foot-high mound, hollowed out like a crater in Vesuvius, is a half
Speaker 4chunk of butter, which is put in while the spuds are
Speaker 15Buds are steaming. Cocan
Speaker 4is devoured by the whole family from the same
Speaker 15is devoured
Speaker 39Yeah.
Speaker 4Does
Speaker 39grabs his piece of
Speaker 4anyone else find this racist? Each grabs his piece of bacon, and while munching, this scoops a gob of potato, dips it into the melted butter, and allows this amalgam to glide down the esophagus. Much merriment-- Sounds like he's describing monkeys to me, actually. Much
Speaker 39merriment
Speaker 4caused by the scrambling for the bits of bacon, a free-for-all usually ensues near the end of the meal. Sounds like an Irish fight, right? Um, when the last of the dwindling remains are scooped with spoons and forks flying like hurley sticks. And it is then that the true
Speaker 25colcannon
Speaker 4artist begins to show their true mantle. It consists of slithering a portion of
Speaker 15This
Speaker 4from your competitor's spoon
Speaker 15gob of potato, dips it into the melted
Speaker 14butter, and allows this malgam to glide down the esophagus. Much merriment. Sounds like he's describing monkeys to me, actually. Much merriment caused by the scrambling for the bits of bacon. A free-for-all usually ensues near the end of the meal. Sounds like an Irish fight, right? Um, when the last of the dwindling remains are scooped with spoons and forks flying like hurley sticks. And it is then that the true ulpanan artist begins to show their true mantle. It consists of slithering a portion of the stuff from your competitor's spoon before it reaches the mouth. Facial expressions of the losers add much to the atmosphere of chaos and excitement. I don't think he thought a lot about the Irish there, Francis. Sorry, buddy.
Speaker 39I don't, I, I don't, I
Speaker 14I
Speaker 25don't, think he thought a lot of the Irish, man. I'm sorry. I don't, I don't, I don't, I don't think he loved
Speaker 39the
Speaker 25the Irish. And, and he
Speaker 4and he left out half the ingredients of cocanot.
Speaker 39However,
Speaker 4the, the dish is great, and if we do this thing, we're
Speaker 25gonna make a colcannon, and we're
Speaker 4gonna make a cocanot and we're gonna make it the right way.
Speaker 39And
Speaker 25are great. This
Speaker 14Just so you guys know, we could have done this for another two hours. Do
Speaker 4our deal. We'll send you that and then... Never mind
Speaker 25your drinks now. That's the whole difference, right? Fine. That's our deal.
Speaker 39with Senjen
Speaker 25Send in
Speaker 39and, uh...
Speaker 25and... I-- Never mind. Someone say never mind.
Speaker 39somebody say never mind? That's fucking fantastic.
Speaker 25That's
Speaker 39love you
Speaker 14it. Well, you have to start paying for your drinks. That's our deal. Never mind. What do you need to know?
Speaker 4Listen, this is great. We, uh
Speaker 25I hope that you will listen to "The Restaurant Guys." Please, follow us, subscribe if you can. Um, we're
Speaker 14Th- you broke into an Irish brogue somehow. What happened?
Speaker 3the cold panic. It
Speaker 14What ha-
Speaker 3cold panic.
Speaker 14what, it was the cold cannon.
Speaker 39It
Speaker 3wasn't-
Speaker 14wanna, I wanna interrupt you for one second. Morgan's standing in the back there. She made these cocktails today-
Speaker 27Morgan.
Speaker 14Garrett. Thank you
Speaker 25thing about this is what we talked about today, this is what cocktails are about. This is what restaurants are about. In an age of AI, when it's gonna come for us all, and everything is digital and everything
Speaker 4It's
Speaker 14It's not gonna make your cocktails.
Speaker 25sir, this
Speaker 4This is where-- This
Speaker 14It's not gonna listen to your sad stories
Speaker 25and I wanna end on this one note. We're super happy that you come patronize your restaurants. We're super happy that you come patronize our restaurants. We're super happy that you listen to "The Restaurant Guys" podcast and are all gonna become paid subscribers in a moment or two. We appreciate that. but the most important thing here, look around. are the most important thing here.
Speaker 39We are
Speaker 25here together in a room in person. It's not AI, it's not virtual, and this is why we do what we do. And so let's continue the story. Let's
Speaker 15have some more drinks
Speaker 39and
Speaker 5Continue the story. Let's have some more drinks. Yeah.
Speaker 39time. Thank you very much.
Speaker 26let's have a great night. Hey.