The Restaurant Guys

Serving The Fish Nobody Wanted | Bryan Caswell

• Restaurant Guys

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0:00 | 1:10:21

Why This Episode Matters

  • The fishermen were giving the fish away. Bryan Caswell wanted to buy it all. What made him think Houston diners would pay for it?
  • Bryan had never filleted a halibut. Then one landed in front of him in Rocco DiSpirito’s kitchen.
  • Would guests pay for bread? At Latuli, it outsells every drink on the menu.


The Banter

Mark and Francis compare the food festivals they’ve been visiting with the old “Taste of” fundraisers. They get into what it costs a restaurant to show up with something it’s proud to serve, and when the charity might be better off with a check.


The Conversation

In Houston, chef Bryan Caswell tells the Guys how growing up fishing the Gulf Coast prepared him for an unexpected test in Rocco DiSpirito’s kitchen. He recalls the precision of Union Pacific and what he learned from Jean-Georges Vongerichten about running a kitchen without yelling.

At Reef, Bryan built a menu around Gulf fish that rarely made it to restaurant tables. He explains how he persuaded fishermen to sell him their bycatch, why he put unfamiliar fish directly on the menu, and how his staff learned to work with whatever came in. He also talks about Hurricane Harvey and why Reef never fully recovered.

Then it’s on to Latuli, the Houston neighborhood restaurant Bryan opened with Allison Knight. The Guys talk about building a dining room people want to come back to, letting regulars have a say in what stays on the menu, and how a bread service Bryan wasn’t sure people would pay for became the restaurant’s biggest seller.


The Guest Bio

Bryan Caswell is the executive chef and co-founder of Latuli in Houston. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, he worked in kitchens in New York and abroad before opening Reef, where he showcased Gulf seafood. He also co-founded Little Bigs and El Real Tex-Mex Cafe. Food & Wine named him a Best New Chef in 2009.


Info

Latuli
https://www.latuli.com/


Timestamps

0:00:00 — What restaurants owe a food festival
0:04:00 — Bryan Caswell joins the Guys in Houston
0:07:00 — From Barcelona to the halibut test in Rocco DiSpirito’s kitchen
0:14:00 — How many moves does a dish take?
0:22:00 — Giving overlooked Gulf fish a place on the menu at Reef
0:34:00 — Hurricane Harvey and why Reef never fully recovered
0:41:00 — What Jean-Georges taught Bryan about running a kitchen
0:50:00 — Coming home to Houston and opening Reef
0:54:00 — Building a neighborhood restaurant at Latuli
1:03:00 — How bread service became Latuli’s biggest seller

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