The Restaurant Guys

Paella, Reimagined | Anya von Bremzen

• Restaurant Guys

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0:00 | 28:52

This is a Vintage episode from 2007.

Why This Episode Matters

  • In Valencia, paella is cooked over burning vine cuttings and has as much in common with Southern barbecue as it does with the seafood platter many Americans picture.
  • Hear about the chef who serves squid paella that looks like Rice Krispies with squid ink broth.
  • Even French chefs were heading to Spain for new ideas. Anya explains what they found in kitchens where liquid nitrogen met Andalusian gazpacho.


The Conversation

Anya takes Mark Pascal and Francis Schott inside Madrid Fusión, where chefs from around the world were trading ideas. She describes how the exchange worked back in Spanish kitchens, too. Tapas cooks borrowed techniques from the avant-garde, and Ferran Adrià regularly ate at his brother Albert’s traditional Barcelona tapas bar.

In Valencia, Anya explains what rabbit, land snails and a wood fire bring to paella, and why the rice gets top billing. She also tells the Guys about chef Quique Dacosta’s work with rice scientists and shares the Italian risotto rice she uses in her own paella.

Francis compares avant-garde cooking techniques to the Force, which somehow leads to a defense of the deep-fried Twinkie. Anya takes the Guys to a Valencian café for horchata and churros before they revisit a debate from 2007 over sous vide in New York City restaurants.


The Guest Bio

Anya von Bremzen is the author of The New Spanish Table and co-author of the James Beard Award–winning Please to the Table: The Russian Cookbook. At the time of the interview, she was a contributing editor at Travel + Leisure and a regular contributor to Food & Wine.

Info

Anya’s book
The New Spanish Table

Timestamps

01:00 — Why French chefs were looking to Spain
04:00 — Liquid nitrogen meets traditional gazpacho
09:00 — Valencia’s paella and its barbecue kinship
13:00 — Quique Dacosta and the science of rice
19:00 — Horchata and churros in Valencia
20:00 — New York City’s sous vide debate



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